The Challenge

The fashion industry is responsible for approximately 10% of global carbon emissions (UNRIC, 2024), nearly double the combined annual emissions of France, Germany, and the United Kingdom (EDGAR, 2024). Yet, despite its massive environmental footprint, 85% of textiles end up in landfills or are incinerated, with only a small fraction being recycled (UNRIC, 2024). The three main drivers of the fashion industry’s pollution impacts are dyeing and finishing (36%), yarn preparation (28%) and fibre production (15%) (Quantis, 2018).

As a result of fibre production’s impact, man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs), commonly made from wood pulp, are one alternative to cotton or synthetic fibres receiving increased attention from the industry (UNCCD, 2024). Cellulose is a natural polymer found in plants which is commonly sourced from cotton linters (short fibres on the cotton seed) and wood pulp (Sid et al., 2021). Cellulose Acetate (CA) a plant-based plastic, is created through reacting purified cellulose with acetic anhydride, using acetic acid and most commonly sulfuric acid. CA is used to make a variety of consumer products including textiles, plastics, films, and cigarette filters.

Historically, within the fashion industry CA fibre is known as ‘artificial silk’, offering a drape, feel and sheen similar to silk, but costing much less (Yardblox, n.d.). It was extremely popular up until the 1970s when its market share declined in favour of cheaper and more durable fully-synthetic fibres like polyester (Law, 2004). Though it currently represents less than one percent of the world's total fibre consumption it is still commonly used for its silk-like properties in garments such as evening wear and formal dresses, and suit and jacket linings (Law, 2004).

As a thermoplastic (a plastic that is pliable or moldable at certain temperatures and solidifies after cooling) CA is desirable for injection-molded products. Known for its mechanical strength, toughness, wear resistance and transparency, and ease of moldability (Britannica, n.d.) CA is a material of choice for high-end eyewear frames (Ray-Ban, n.d.) and for arguably one of the most important and ubiquitous fashion items, the humble button. 

As global fashion brands seek to tackle the environmental damage caused by the industry the demand for recycled materials is increasing. The global recycled plastics market is currently valued at USD 85.90 billion and projected to grow to USD 149.25 billion by 2032 (Markets and Markets, 2025). One source for high quality recycled CA comes from an unexpected place...  

The Circular Opportunity

Approximately 80% of all CA production is used to make cigarette filters (C&EN, 2016). In 2023, more than 600 million illegal cigarettes were seized in EU operations involving the European Anti-Fraud Office (OLAF) (TJI, 2024). In 2024, 112 million illegal cigarettes were seized in Ireland (Revenue, 2025). Typically, seized cigarettes are destroyed by incineration but Irish company and CIRCULÉIRE member Rezero is working to make sure that valuable material doesn’t go to waste.

Working with customs in Ireland and several EU countries, Rezero recycles cellulose acetate from seized cigarette butts, preventing the versatile material from being incinerated while reducing CO₂ emissions and avoiding the production of virgin CA (Irish Times, 2024). The company turns their recycled CA it into premium fashion accessories, such as buttons, frames for glasses, and yarn fibres. They have also developed their own Re-Fil Fibre for wadding, insulation and acoustic panels. Their mechanical, chemical-free recycling process produces OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified acetate and is free from harmful substances (Rezero, n.d.). 

Rezero supply customers with raw material, but their mission is to become the leading EU button and fashion accessory provider, suppling sustainable buttons of any shape, size and colour. They have already begun working with fashion designers and high-profile luxury fashion brands (Irish Times, 2024).

As the fashion industry looks to increase the sustainability of their products, Rezero aims to capitalise on this drive by becoming a premium recycled material supplier for numerous brands. By focussing on buttons, an accessory that practically every brand needs, Rezero has a broad potential customer base.

Climate Impact

Rezero estimate approximately 700 billion unconsumed cigarettes are incinerated around the globe annually contributing to air pollution and greenhouse gas emissions (Rezero, n.d.). For every 100kg of cellulose acetate fibre manufactured by Rezero they prevent the felling of one tree and avoid up to 184 kg of CO₂ emissions from incineration (Rezero, n.d.). Since 2021, Rezero have saved over 160 million units of cigarettes from incineration and are aiming to recycle 1 billion filters by 2026. By repurposing low-value cigarette butts into high-value accessories for the fashion industry, Rezero helps avoid the unnecessary extraction of virgin resources while promoting sustainable and circular practices within the industry.

Replicability

The fashion industry has a huge sustainability problem and pressures to reduce the industry’s negative impacts on the environment are increasing. Examples of brands already engaging with their impacts:

• Marchon Eyewear produce and sell frames using Eastman Acetate Renew™, a sustainable material made from bio-based and recycled materials certified by the International Sustainability and Carbon Certification (ISCC).    

  
  

• Patagonia source MMCFs from sustainably grown wood, waste streams, and fibre-production processes that use less harmful chemistries, including Eastmans cellulose acetate Naia® Renew fibre.